Marriage is a foreign country in which only two citizens speak the language, know the traditions and track the terrain. Others may occasionally gain passport privileges, but they'll never completely understand the customs, festivals and volatile economy of this shuttered land. For those of us who live in the Albania, if you will, of the married state — shivering outside in the gaily colored peasant clothing of the Unmarried Ones — this country is both beckoning and repellent.... Read more