When the countdown to midnight begins on New Year’s Eve, there will be party hats on people’s heads and a few key questions on their minds: Will the economy pick up in 2009? Is there somebody smoochable in the vicinity? Where’s the Champagne?

The host, on the other hand, may be gritting her teeth at the thought of all the $50 bottles she sprang for. Or she could be pouring bargain-basement bubbly stuff and hoping her guests don’t notice it lacks a proud pedigree. After all, not everything that sparkles is from France. Or tastes delightful.... Read more