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Embrace the Fake

A creative Montréal eatery takes meat substitutes way beyond Tofurkey

Eyeing an oversized "Big Kahuna" burger in Pulp Fiction, Samuel L. Jackson voiced the dilemma of an omnivore in love with someone who shuns meat. "Me . . . I can't usually get 'em, 'cause my girlfriend's a vegetarian, which pretty much makes me a vegetarian," he lamented. "But I do love the taste of a good burger."... Read more

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Viva L’Arte

A retrospective of Cuban works in Montréal is nothing short of revolutionary

Vermonters, or any Americans, who are curious about Cuba should travel to the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts before June 8 to see the most comprehensive exhibit of Cuban art ever assembled outside the island nation. This exhaustive retrospective — entitled “Cuba! Art and History From 1868 to Today” — may never arrive at an American venue, owing to the nearly 50-year policy of “protecting” U.S. citizens from the ideas and images of the Cuban revolution.... Read more

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Crossing the Line

Border Stories

Life has changed in many ways since 9/11, not the least of which is compromising, or scrapping altogether, certain freedoms in the name of homeland security. For average, non-trouble-making Americans, though, this manifests primarily in another “inconvenient truth” of modern times. That is, the hassle of long lines, greater scrutiny and, sometimes, intimidating interactions with authorities when we try to get from one place to another. Nowhere is this more evident than at an international border.... Read more

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Bordering on Fear

How a misinterpreted gesture got me on the terrorist watch list — maybe

Acuriously intense blanket of fog made nearly the whole journey from Montréal to the Highgate Springs border entrance a hyper-vigilant, steering-wheel-clenching affair. I approached the U.S. Customs station at 1 in the morning on November 21 with relief, if only because it was the first truly well-lit area I’d seen for 40 miles. Winding around the pylons and creeping up to the single open checkpoint lane, I saw that not a single car was ahead of me.... Read more

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Border Crossings

Vermont two-wheelers take pedal power to Montréal

One hundred-plus Vermont cyclists, their helmets festooned with gauzy green ribbons, composed a colorful contingent pedaling along car-free Montréal streets in the annual Tour de l’Ile last Sunday.

“It was so cool to ride on four-lane roads and feel we’re just taking over,” said Patty Hallam of Middlebury. “Bikes ruled that day!”... Read more

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Nothing Like Noir

Here's a sad truth about the Green Mountaineers who come to this fair island-opolis: They're determined to find a party but often end up missing the best action the city has to offer. Some, it is rumored, tragically depart without having checked out Montréal noir. The cognoscenti know that the city owes its unparalleled party rep to its 140,000 black residents, who compose 4 percent of the total population and are roughly evenly divided between English and French speakers.... Read more

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Way Beyond Poutine

Montréal's oddest restos offer cuisine with color - or in the dark

If this island city on the St. Lawrence has a quirky, nonconformist style, it's largely thanks to the countless eateries that serve up personality along with their solid square meals. Parts of the burg boast an oddball joint on every corner; flaky foodie joints are so predominant that city dwellers are occasionally bedazzled by the boring. Case in point: When a Taco Bell opened recently, curious customers lined up for hours to get a predictable taste.... Read more

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Bar-Hopping Over the Border

A guide to Montréal watering holes you've probably never heard of

Drink in Montréal and you sip among the immortals. We natives have spent generations cultivating our city's reputation: Sin City. Havana North. A perpetual Mardi Gras.

We love our bars. They're where we meet after work, where we fall in love, feud with friends, and conduct pub crawls - a pastime many locals consider a rite to be repeated every weekend.

In Montréal, where the legal drinking age is 18, the philosophy is that those who drink early drink more responsibly later in life. Who's arguing?... Read more

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Doing It Their Way

At Montréal's artist-run centers, anything goes

If you want to experience Montréal's local art scene, leave the well-worn tourist path between the Contemporary and Fine Arts museums and head for the city's artist-run centers. You may find yourself standing in front of a 10-foot-tall pink elephant with a kitten on its lap, or a group of boys with Mr. Potato Head faces beating a cone of French fries, or video footage of the Kennedy assassination with a Herzegovinian folk-dirge soundtrack.... Read more

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Call Him Ishmael

Illustrator Robert Del Tredici plumbs the depths of Moby Dick

Robert Del Tredici didn't have a grant or a book contract when he first began illustrating Herman Melville's classic whale tale Moby Dick nearly 40 years ago.

"I did it out of sheer necessity," recalls the Montréal-based artist, photographer and college professor, who exhibits and speaks about his illustrations at the Burlington Book Festival this weekend. "It was a lifeline for me."... Read more

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