Seven Days: Vermont's Independent Voice

(Published in 7 Nights 2007-08)

At Rainbow Sweets in Marshfield, the conversation is as good as the pastries, and that's saying a lot. Bill Tecosky, who owns the café and bakery with his wife, Trish, is blessed with the gift of gab. It's in evidence when he runs through the daily specials — the delivery is more performance art than recitation. While remarking on the wonders of his signature St. Honoré pastry — which he calls "Johnny Depp on a Plate" — the 57-year-old advises against sharing. Why? "Acute pastry envy," he warns. "I've seen it a million times, and pastry counselors are hard to come by."

Tecosky has a way with words. So do many of his patrons — Jane Shore, Howard Norman, Joyce Johnson and David Mamet are all regulars. In his book South of the Northeast Kingdom, Mamet mentions friendly gatherings at Rainbow Sweets. He also notes a local tradition of bringing newborns over for a weigh-in on the bakery's pastry scale. Gesturing at a corner table, Tecosky claims "great novels" have been written on the premises.

Plenty of delicious food has been served here, too. Global specials such as Moroccan b'stilla, Greek spanakopita and South American empanadas make you forget you're in small-town Vermont; each comes with a generous side salad. After lunch, Tecosky may inquire whether you're experiencing "a carbohydrate deficiency." Afflicted customers are "his favorite people," and boy, does he have a cure. The pastry case is full of decadent delights such as Napoleons with pastry cream and cherry jam, caramel nut tarts and chocolate-covered toffee. And, of course, the "Johnny Depps."

Tecosky says his favorite part of owning a restaurant is hearing people actually moan when they try his pastries. He reports, "I've been watching people legally release endorphins here for 31 years."

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