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Published on Seven Days (http://www.7dvt.com)

Vermont Gets Bitten

Side Dishes: Plaudits from a NYT writer

By Suzanne Podhaizer [07.23.08]

Mark Bittman, a New York Times food writer and author of How to Cook Everything, recently came out in support of the Vermont dining scene on his NYT Bitten [1] blog.

Though Bittman implies he was previously none too impressed with our restaurants, a recent visit apparently convinced him that Vermonters, just like Manhattanites, can eat well. Which eateries made him change his tune? Hen of the Wood at the Grist Mill [2] in Waterbury and Ariel’s Restaurant [3] in Brookfield.

At HOTW, Bittman dug the pork cheeks, hanger steak and gnocchi. At Ariel’s, he took advantage of Lee Duberman and Richard Fink’s Sunday specials: a $20 prix fixe meal with $15 bottles of wine. “The three-course prix fixe thing seems to suit Lee, and her pork belly, chicken (especially fine), tagliatelle with vegetables . . . and strawberry semifreddo were all sensational,” he enthuses.

As for the state as a whole: “Clearly people are taking food very, very seriously here, and it’s a beautiful thing,” Bittman declares. Nice to hear it!


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