Bluebird Debate

[Morganna]

Of course some of you "expect" to pay $24 for an entree at Hen of the Wood which is touted as a local "fine dining" establishment (I use this term very loosely since it certainly is not compared to Per Se or L'Espalier).

Err, would you be willing to start a Hen of the Wood thread?  I've never seen -anyone- make a serious negative criticism of this place (which is, in my experience, very unusual on Chowhound.com).  I've heard a few mild comments made that the portions for certain things seemed a bit small, and I think there was one dish that one person didn't like very much. But nothing condemnatory, and certainly nothing like what you've hinted at above.  I'm wondering where Per Se and L'Espalier are, and why Hen of the Wood can't compare.  What's the differences?

[Suzanne Podhaizer]

Morganna - Per Se is a New York City restaurant owned by Chef Thomas Keller (also of The French Laundry and Bouchon, etc.). For what it's worth, Per Se is currently #6 on the San Pellegrino list of the world's best restaurants.

L'Espalier is a lovely French restaurant in Boston. It was actually the first really fine restaurant I ever visited back in 2001. (The servers chatted in French, and when I went to the restaurant my napkin was refolded and my food was domed). On that occasion, I ate a fig and anise bread that I will never forget.

I will start a Hen of the Wood thread to continue that discussion.

As for the Bluebird, I'm a huge fan. When I'm doing a review the newspaper pays for my meals. When I'm buying my own food I almost invariably go to the Bluebird. Why?

1) Sharing small plates is my favorite way to dine. When I go out to eat with my husband, we always agree on a handful of dishes and share them. At a more traditional restaurant this usually means one appetizer, one salad, two entrees and one dessert. At the Bluebird Tavern, because the portion sizes are smaller, we get to try more items than usual (up to eight or nine) for the same price.

2) I prefer constantly changing menus. Even at very nice restaurants — with a handful of exceptions for startlingly good fare — I rarely want to eat the same dish twice. Each time I go to the Bluebird I find new and exciting items on the menu. However, I'm aware that changing the menu so often means that chefs may not get the chance to perfect each dish. Unless I'm at at an incredibly expensive place, novelty is more important to me than technical perfection. And I'd rather have an $11 small plate that falls a bit flat than a $25 entrée that does, which happens all too often.

3) Seasonal, handmade food is important to me, and I'm willing to pay more for it. Anyone can buy Heinz and Hellman's. It takes a certain level of passion to make condiments from scratch. Or buy whole animals and butcher them. That said, I find the prices at the Bluebird incredibly reasonable for what you get.

4) When I go to a restaurant, I want to eat things that I would be unlikely (or unable) to make at home. Goat meatballs with housemade yogurt and harissa ($5)? Check. Deep-fried sardine with baby artichokes, purple potatoes and saffron aioli ($12, I think)? Check. Fluke crudo with heirloom cucumber and pork cracklins ($11)? Check.  All were excellent.

I could go on, but I'll save some of my thoughts for another time.

Overall, when I go out to a restaurant I want to have an adventure: At the Bluebird, that's what I get.

[tonyo]

This comment is not meant as a reflection on The Bluebird Tavern but many, not all, of the posters that are in the "fan" column.  Why do many of these people feel a need to degrade the detractors of this place?  Comments along the lines of "not understanding" or "only eat at Chili's" or "eat plates of garbage".  Give me a friggin break !  Because I find their portions small (as do many other posters) that somehow means that I am some slob that double fists Whopper's.  If you like the place great, tell us why (as some have) without showing how "enlightened" you are.  Because I find $30 for a dozen oysters to be really high does that mean I should only eat at Long John Silver's ?  Is there soon going to be an interview process that one needs to pass to dine here ?  "Sir, I see that you voted for McCain and drive a domestic SVU, we are going to have to ask you to leave at once".  I sincerely would like to see this place make it.  Until I have an epiphany and trade my Harley for a Vespa , I'll probably dine elsewhere  to avoid being judged by the choosen few that "get it" (was that sarcastic enough folks ).

[Mara]

Tonyo - I agree! For some reason if you complain about The Bluebird you are white trash. For example, I complained that I don't like my fries cooked really crispy and even noted that lots of people do like them cooked that way. There was a comment made in return (by a 7 days staffer no less) about how gross softer fries are and how Burlington doesn't know anything about fries and how Al's fries are disgusting and how everyone in Burlington loves them but they are horrible. THEN an entire thread was started about resto pet peeves and at the very top was how soft fries are disgusting.

I like to eat local food that is well prepared and am willing to pay for it. I don't however, like paying a ridiculous amount of money for a tiny amount of food even if it's local. I can go to several other restaurants in Vermont and get amazing local food and still feel satiated when I leave. I'm pretty sure that doesn't make me trash, just not a hipster!

[Suzanne Podhaizer]

Just want to jump in here for a second. First of all, I'm seeing some strong rhetoric from both fans and detractors. But honestly, when I read back over this particular thread (I'm not talking about any other thread on this forum or other 7 Nights comments), I don't see anything along the lines of what TonyO is suggesting.

Almost everybody who commented in favor explained — in detail — what they liked and why they liked it. Most used language like "I think," "I like" and "I prefer." A bunch added a bit of criticism along with the praise. One or two sounded a bit judgmental, but didn't engage in any out-and-out name calling.

It seems like there's a lot of defensiveness on both sides, but we don't all have to like the same places, the same portion sizes, etc.

In fact, I find the last two posts — plus TonyO's previous post and the one from SiliconGhost, who is clearly NOT a fan — to be among the most strongly worded comments on this thread. I like the Bluebird, for some of the reasons expressed in my post above. I'm not a hipster by any means and I'm not even close to wealthy, although I do save up my money until I can afford to go to the restaurants I really like. Bluebird's food happens to totally floats my particular boat, and I go there on every possible occasion. 

Maura, I'm pasting in the text of Alice's reply regarding the fries verbatim and in its entirety:

"I have to jump in and defend the fries. I find almost all of them in the area to be flaccid and undercooked. It seems like most places around here don't how to blanch 'em. The Bluebird serves up what I think of as French bistro frites. Very crisp, very salty and very addictive. The aioli rocks, too! My favorite poutine ever used to be the one at Duckfat in Portland, ME, but the Bluebird's has beaten it even without killing a duck."

She's clearly expressing her opinion about them, but she didn't call them gross, make any comments about people who like soft fries or mention Al's. I think you're confusing her comments with those of another commenter who posted after. 

[tonyo]

To Suzanne,

My comments were certainly derived from comments on the 7 Nights website which I figured was relevant as most posters here have visited that site and such comments are likely what gave rise to this thread.  If that is confusing, hopefully this statement will clarify my comments and those posted by others.  At the end of the day, this is still America and everyone is free to dine when and where they wish, for which I feel grateful and blessed to be part of.  Additionally, my comments were in no way meant to signify that Bluebird Tavern patrons are wealthy elitists.  The attitude I referenced has no financial paramaters.  In fact, my guess is that the average income of Bluebird patrons is no higher than those out dining elsewhere. 

To those tha agree with me, Cheers !  To those that don't, Cheers to you as well !

[Morganna]

She's clearly expressing her opinion about them, but she didn't call them gross, make any comments about people who like soft fries or mention Al's. I think you're confusing her comments with those of another commenter who posted after. 

I'm one who posted after the comments about crispy fries, and I didn't say one word about the people who prefer their fries soft.  I -did- express my feelings about soft fries, though, calling them flabby.  Because that's how they are -to me-.  I did express that I was shocked people thought Al's fries were the best, but that is because of -my preference- not because I thought or said one word about the people who like them.

I continue to not say a single word about the people who prefer soft fries.  It's a personal preference, and fortunately for you folks, that's mostly what you get in restaurants all over Vermont.  Soft fries.  I prefer crispy ones.  So I'm glad to hear that there's at least one place in Vermont that offers an alternative to them soft ones.  That's all I meant.

[mailgirl]

I have not been to the Bluebird but I am going soon to taste the fries for myself!  A few of my friends have gone and said that there is not much for vegetarians.  What else is new? I am willing to pay $ to se for myself.  I shall report back.

[Undead Molly]

I'm being driven mad with curiosity about this place after reading so much about it and seeing so many descriptive tweets from friends' many excursions there. Too bad it is out of my price range. Does anyone know if they offer weekly specials or coupons or anything like that?

[Suzanne Podhaizer]

Hi Molly,

As far as I know, they don't currently have specials or coupons. I'll ask the owner next time I'm there, though.

Not sure if this would work, but perhaps you could stop in earlier or later in the evening for a couple snacks rather than a full dinner? I'm not sure what your price range is, but you could create a small but pleasant combination of dishes for around $15 before tax and tip.

For example: Goat meatballs $5, frites w/malt-vinegar mayo $5 and baby lettuce & herb salad $5
-OR- Tomato bread $5, spicy lamb sausage $5 and brown-butter kale $5

You wouldn't be full, but you'd get to taste a few things.

At brunch, you could get away with $10-$15ish, again before tax and tip.

 

[live2eat]

I love Bluebird!

I have been five times now and it gets better every time.  Last time I went with my husband and five of our friends.  We sampled awesome treats from the kitchen while we had our drinks and perused the menu.  We then  consumed a couple of butcher's boards, oysters, poutine, lamb meatballs, burgers and the best fries in Burlington with house made ketchup and aioli along with good wines and great beers. We shared a couple of desserts and left totally satisfied.

This is the perfect place to enjoy food and friends and I am really looking forward to my next visit.

[dancinggirl]

I also find the staff very well informed. They are not going to explain every dish on the menu unsolicited, but are very knowledgeable when asked.
I have experienced the staff being a little overwhelmed at times and at other times gotten great service. I never had the perception that they were not trying, though.
I love the herbed frites and when I had a burger there, it was perfect.

I think that those who had a less than happy experience there should by all means let the management know. I think they care and for what it's worth, you did pay for it!!!

I for one will be going back!!

[siliconghost]

Good experience?

I get a good experience every time I get the plumbing done in my house.

But I still get my pants pulled down over the price.

Doesn't mean I'm going to write home about it.

[inapickle]

Seriously nay sayers?    Having this resto in Burlington or even in Vermont is a huge treat, an unbelievable boon to the culinary scene, an honor and a privilege.  As a chef and restaurateur, heavily involved in the biz nationally and even internationally, I cannot say enough about my joy at having this option and my hope that these negative comments don't water down this well executed Gastropub.  Those not aware should recognize the GASTRO word in front of the pub and should know it stands for gastronomy and Bluebird does not fall short of this promise.

The menu is brilliant in its simplicity and lack of flash and flaunt.  The ingredients are not only admirably, sustainably and locally sourced (still not easy even in the Green Mountain State) but delightfully delicious in their expert preparation which does not take a heavy hand with the most delicate ingredients and utilizes the requisite skill in transforming the rest.. Small plates from $4.00 (c’mon folks four bucks!) and at present includes no fewer than four vegetarian in addition to a multitude of seafood options. A sophisticated yet comforting variety not found in many of the big culinary city Gastropubs I have frequented this year (all of which by-the-way are at least as pork and meat-centric as BBT).

I have found the service from the greeting at the door to timely receipt of the check, pleasant, professional, informed and attentive without being overly hovering in fact, comparatively and sort of shockingly impressive (I am no pushover in this area either).   I have had a few minor personal preferences such as not having heavily grilled bread – hearty and delicious with some plates - for my more refined butcher ‘s board, substituted ingredient or glassware requests and without argument or further discussion received alternatives and solutions. Last minute orders were fulfilled immediately and without hesitation, a rush on a meal to make a show understood and professionally adjusted.  The wine and beer list is impressive beyond compare offering interesting, unique and reasonable selections appropriate to the cuisine and seen in few area restaurants. The space is comfortable with careful, thoughtful yet understated details taking advantage of the previous space without being overly reminiscent of it.  

The food and service is on par with the more expensive and elaborate dinners cooked and served by much of this same A team at the Shelburne Farms until last year but without the constraints that that dining room and tourist pleasing menu demand.  I cannot say how much I appreciate the progressiveness and innovation this team has employed while giving credence to time-honored, traditional and even heritage foods and style in what I consider near perfect harmony.  In these times, I love that I can step in for an inexpensive beer and a small plate alone at the bar but still consider Bluebird for a special occasion dinner or a big shared meal with a group of friends and family.

As a whole Bluebird deserves to be cocky but I don't find an ounce of the overconfident, arrogance that I abhor in more progressive spots of this caliber.

If this menu, food or format is not one you personally understand or appreciate, I think that is  fine; go for drinks and a bowl of almonds or don't go at all. However, know that lack of discernment or reception to this style is not the responsibility or burden of the restaurant struggling to stay true to a concept that may not be all things to all people in tough financial times.  It is a difficult enough business as it is.  I for one will support Bluebird's efforts to keep doing what they are doing as long as they keep doing it – and I hope that is a long, long time.

[tonyo]

Yet again, another positive review of the Bluebird Tavern with a condescending tone to it.  I have figured it out !  There should be a DNA test to determine the bloodlines of patrons so as to not let any "mutts" dine with the "purebreds".  I guess us mutts will eat at Ponderosa because that will allow our ignorant gluttony to be satiated at a trough suitable for us. This will allow the privileged and intellectually superior few to dine without fear of having to rub elbows with such street urchins.     

I have to go start preparing a slow-braised osso bucco served with homemade gnocchi
and paired with a 1996 Barolo. I know, you probably thought I was going to be making something with Spam in a crockpot served with a suitcase of Miller Highlife while I sat around belching and watching Nascar.  Surprise !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!