Seven Days: Vermont's Independent Voice

(Published in 7 Nights 2006-07)

Once upon a time, Vermonters with a yen for pad Thai or inari had to drive to Montréal. Now, excellent Asian eating is a given in Burlington, and even the suburban malls have gotten in on the act. While shopping in the Essex area, drop by Joyce's Noodle House, Tiny Thai or Vietnam Restaurant. Between the big boxes in Williston, you'll find Japanese sushi at Sakura and Korean fare at Naru Asian Cuisine. At Maple Tree Place, there's also Asian Bistro, with a multinational menu and a surprisingly urban vibe.

Past the sushi bar by the entrance, friendly waitstaff in black slacks and neckties work the high-ceilinged dining room. Faux-leather banquettes seat families with kids and couples grabbing a bite before the movies. A long table along the restaurant's front wall accommodates a large party celebrating a special occasion. The menu is almost as expansive as the room, inviting diners to choose between sushi, Chinese entrées or Thai-inspired dishes, or mix to it up.

The tuna and yellowtail maki are fresh and delicious, the scallion pancakes hot and crisp. Duck with black-bean-and-ginger sauce sizzles when the server assembles it at the table. Shallow-fried "creaky" chicken comes spiced with slices of fresh ginger, and Thai pork loin with whole bird's-eye chilis. Portions are plentiful and gorgeously garnished, and nothing is dumbed down.

When it comes to cooking, Chittenden County is clearly broadening its horizons.

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